The Fall ‘24 collection by Thom Browne ‘brought back’ – theatrical schemes on the runway, though his shows were always very theatrical. He made the show Edgar Allen Poe-themed, followed by a reading of his famous poem ‘The Raven’ in a scene of a snowy lot, signifying the story.
‘The Raven’ by Edgar Allan Poe is one of the most famous poems ever written about a man who is torn over the recent death of his beloved named Lenore. As he goes through a lonely winter night in his room, a raven taps repeatedly on the door and then the window. The man is surprised to find the talking raven when he opens the window. After being let in, the raven flies to and lands on a bust of Pallas.
The speaker depicts himself as “weak and weary,” meaning that his attempts to distract his memory from the lost Lenore have only weakened him and slowed him down. Although at first he is amused by the “late visitor”, Raven’s word “nevermore” reminds the speaker of the truth as to how he will see his lost love, Lenore, nevermore.
The Raven’s one word moved him so deeply that he felt the air had become “denser,” and when he tells the Raven, “Leave my loneliness unbroken,” he emphasizes that his suffering has only caused him to shut himself off from the world.
The poem delves into the overwhelming impact of grief, illustrating how it can corrupt an individual, hindering their ability to embrace the present and participate in society.
Browne brilliantly captured the essence of Edgar Allan Poe’s “The Raven.” and put it on a runway, which became a stage for Browne to translate the poem’s themes of heartbreak and despair into a visual spectacle.
A model dressed as a tree, decorated with a massive puffer coat, symbolizes emotional burden, while a lit broken window and snowy backdrop echo the poem’s haunting and drearisome climate.
Starting off the runway was Lenore, with a design of black birds on her coat and headdress, she stayed wandering in the winter setting practically as a ghost, as Poe’s poem was recited by Carrie Coon, until it ended with the taunting, haunting “Nevermore, nevermore, nevermore” till her departing.
The models had abstract makeup, with signature red lips, and stiffly teased and braided hair, almost like the flimsy antennas of the world’s scariest bug.
The color palette and presentation consisted of mostly black and white tailored looks with structured woven coats, wools, and tweeds. Clothing like pencil skirts and trench coats bound by multiple fabric belts hinted at ‘haute bondage gear’ were incorporated into this collection. Ruffled feathers of the Raven realized through long strips of fabric falling past the hems. The accessories included things like bags with coverings, providing a waterproof enclosure for winter.
Another color focus to take into regard is the dried-out brownish heels, boots, and shoes covered in plastic, as Browne wanted to show the wearability in the winter. And the small focal points of Browne’s brand colors – red and blue.
There were also focal pointed graphics featuring the iconic phrase “nevermore” graffitied onto the backs of Tweed coats. The use of a tar-like substance in the graffiti symbolizes the absence of color and vibrancy.
The show was closed with two pieces in one: a large gold concoction taken off during the finale to reveal a pannier overskirt imprinted with bird graphics, a golden knitted cardigan, and a centered bow, with Browne’s signature red and blue
The overall mood and theme of this Fall-Winter-designed collection Browne gave was an exploration of the mournful and pensive world of Edgar Allan Poe infused with Browne’s perspective of fashion, evoking feelings of passionate sorrow.
The collection serves as a dramatic expression and storytelling, akin to a ballet or opera. Browne offered impactful wearable pieces with emotional depth, and successfully combined operatic drama and storytelling with high fashion, creating a unique and impactful collection for Fall ‘24.